Crochet a Solomon's Knot Square

Small pink square worked with sports weight yarnSports weight yarn and 3.00 mm hook
White thread yarn used to make a bigger squareThread weight, 1.75 mm hook

The Solomon's Knot Square is a pretty piece to crochet - and works up nice and fast!

You don't have to aim for a perfect square - rectangles are allowed ;)

I have added a couple of stitches here and there to shape the corners - and your very first Solomon's Knot will be what I call "mini" size to get the look just right!

Make the square or rectangle as big as you want. You could use it for a lacy scarf, a table runner or just a little mat like I have done here:

My little plant sitting on the thread mat

How to Crochet your Solomon's Knot Square

Stitches:

SK = Solomon's Knot/s - if you haven't learned this stitch yet, see my Solomon's Knot tutorial :)

My SKs here are worked by pulling up a loop of a little less than half an inch - about 1 cm. Yours may be bigger, of course.

mini SK = a smaller SK 

There is only one mini SK - the first SK of the pattern. I work a normal sized chain with the sc (UK dc) worked into the back loop. If your SKs are bigger than mine, work a slightly bigger mini SK!

Basically, you don't want the bottom-left corner of your piece sticking out, so I've reduced the length of the beginning 2 SK by working the first one smaller.

sc = UK dc

sc knot = the sc (UK dc) that you worked into the back of a loop for a SK!

top middle stitch = my name for the sc knot that sits between the two higher-sitting SK loops from row 3 onwards :) It's all shown in the photo tutorial below.

It might look a bit fiddly but I think the pattern's really extremely easy - the bulk of it is simply SKs worked in the regular SK rows with all the same size stitches.

OK - ready, steady, and let's go!

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Row 1: ch 2, 1 sc into 2nd chain from hook. This is your 1st corner! I recommend stitch marking that sc so you can see exactly where to work into at the end of the next row.

First stitches and stitch markersc worked into 2nd ch from hook and stitch marked

Work 1 mini SK; then work an even number of SK.

I worked one mini then six normal-sized SK - so seven in all for my sampler here. Simply work the length you need for your project.

Close-up of mini SKMy first - and last - mini SK!
The first row has been crochetedThe rest of the 1st row

Ch 1, turn; 1 sc into sc knot next to hook. This is your 2nd corner!

Working the second cornersc into sc next to hook (the sc knot from the last SK)

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Row 2: 2 SK, skip the 2 SK just worked, skip the corner, work 1 sc into the next sc knot which sits between two loops:

Stitch marker showing placement of next stitchStitch marker shows you where to work after the turn
Stitch following the turnCompleted stitch after the turn

(2 SK, skip next sc knot, sc next) along your row, working your last sc into the 1st sc worked for the pattern - your first corner stitch in Row 1. Which may have a stitch marker in it!

2 SK, turn.

Working Solomon's knots along the second rowWorking along the row, skipping a sc knot between two SK
Where to place the final stitch of the second rowFinal stitch worked into beginning sc at start of pattern - stitch marked
Turning into the third row2 SK and ... turn!

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Row 3: sc into the next "top middle" stitch on row - the higher-sitting sc knot that sits between two loops of SK on your previous row.

(2 SK; sc into next top middle stitch) along your row.

The last top middle stitch is at the end corner of your row, but still between two loops in fact ;)

2 SK, turn.

Stitch marker showing my top middle stitchStitch marker shows "top middle" stitch where we work after the turn
What the end stitch to work into looks likeThe last "top middle" stitch is stitch marked - it's at the end although it is in the middle :)

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Repeat Row 3 for the pattern and get set for the last row!

Work an odd number of total rows until you have almost created your square, replacing the 2 SK turn at the end of your last odd-numbered row with:

1 SK with TWO sc into the back loop - your 3rd corner; 1 SK, turn.

Turning into the last rowSK with 2 sc in back loop; one normal SK - then turn into last row

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Last Row: OK, so this row should be an even-numbered row!

Sc into next top middle stitch.

(2 SK; sc into top middle stitch) along the row until you get to your last 2 SK where you will work:

1 SK; then 1 SK with 2 sc into the back loop, to shape the 4th corner.

Join with a ss into the last top middle stitch. Tie off - and if you're making a scarf or bigger piece, leave a nice long tail end.

Preparing to work the last two Solomon's knotsJust before working the last 2 SK
The last Solomon's knot with 2 sc in the back loop1 SK; another SK with two sc in back loop
Slip stitch to finishJoin with a slip stitch in last stitch

Weaving in :)

it's always a bit of a challenge weaving in the ends with Solomon's Knots because there's almost nowhere to weave those ends into! That's why I began and ended my Solomon's Knot Scarf with borders.

For our Solomon's Knot Square, I sewed my ends into the corners - carefully working through the stitches around the corner, up and down two or three times. Then snipped off the remaining yarn. I figure this will be fine for a mat as it won't be worn and moved about very much.

If you are making a scarf, then I think it would be best to thread the tail ends along further and then back for a more solid weave-in.


How to weave in the tail endWeaving in the tail end
Weaving in by working up and down a little through the corner stitchesBack and forth a few times before snipping the yarn

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