The Solomon's Knot Square is a pretty piece to crochet - and works up nice and fast!
You don't have to aim for a perfect square - rectangles are allowed ;)
I have added a couple of stitches here and there to shape the corners - and your very first Solomon's Knot will be what I call "mini" size to get the look just right!
Make the square or rectangle as big as you want. You could use it for a lacy scarf, a table runner or just a little mat like I have done here:
SK = Solomon's Knot/s - if you haven't learned this stitch yet, see my Solomon's Knot tutorial :)
My SKs here are worked by pulling up a loop of a little less than half an inch - about 1 cm. Yours may be bigger, of course.
mini SK = a smaller SK
There is only one mini SK - the first SK of the pattern. I work a normal sized chain with the sc (UK dc) worked into the back loop. If your SKs are bigger than mine, work a slightly bigger mini SK!
Basically, you don't want the bottom-left corner of your piece sticking out, so I've reduced the length of the beginning 2 SK by working the first one smaller.
sc = UK dc
sc knot = the sc (UK dc) that you worked into the back of a loop for a SK!
top middle stitch = my name for the sc knot that sits between the two higher-sitting SK loops from row 3 onwards :) It's all shown in the photo tutorial below.
It might look a bit fiddly but I think the pattern's really extremely easy - the bulk of it is simply SKs worked in the regular SK rows with all the same size stitches.
OK - ready, steady, and let's go!
Row 1: ch 2, 1 sc into 2nd chain from hook. This is your 1st corner! I recommend stitch marking that sc so you can see exactly where to work into at the end of the next row.
Work 1 mini SK; then work an even number of SK.
I worked one mini then six normal-sized SK - so seven in all for my sampler here. Simply work the length you need for your project.
Ch 1, turn; 1 sc into sc knot next to hook. This is your 2nd corner!
Row 2: 2 SK, skip the 2 SK just worked, skip the corner, work 1 sc into the next sc knot which sits between two loops:
(2 SK, skip next sc knot, sc next) along your row, working your last sc into the
1st sc worked for the pattern - your first corner stitch in Row 1. Which may have a stitch marker in it!
2 SK, turn.
Row 3: sc into the next "top middle" stitch on row - the higher-sitting sc knot that sits between two loops of SK on your previous row.
(2 SK; sc into next top middle stitch) along your row.
The last top middle stitch is at the end corner of your row, but still between two loops in fact ;)
2 SK, turn.
Repeat Row 3 for the pattern and get set for the last row!
Work an odd number of total rows until you have almost created your square, replacing the 2 SK turn at the end of your last odd-numbered row with:
1 SK with TWO sc into the back loop - your 3rd corner; 1 SK, turn.
Last Row: OK, so this row should be an even-numbered row!
Sc into next top middle stitch.
(2 SK; sc into top middle stitch) along the row until you get to your last 2 SK where you will work:
1 SK; then 1 SK with 2 sc into the back loop, to shape the 4th corner.
Join with a ss into the last top middle stitch. Tie off - and if you're making a scarf or bigger piece, leave a nice long tail end.
it's always a bit of a challenge weaving in the ends with Solomon's Knots because there's almost nowhere to weave those ends into! That's why I began and ended my Solomon's Knot Scarf with borders.
For our Solomon's Knot Square, I sewed my ends into the corners - carefully working through the stitches around the corner, up and down two or three times. Then snipped off the remaining yarn. I figure this will be fine for a mat as it won't be worn and moved about very much.
If you are making a scarf, then I think it would be best to thread the tail ends along further and then back for a more solid weave-in.